Application of NMN as a Cosmetic Ingredient
β-Nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN), the key precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD⁺), has recently become a hotspot in cosmetic research because of its central role in cellular energy metabolism and aging regulation. By elevating intracellular NAD⁺ levels, NMN activates the sirtuin (SIRT) family of longevity proteins, modulates the cellular redox balance and stimulates collagen synthesis, thereby offering a new avenue for skin anti-aging.
Safety Profile
Safety is the foremost criterion for any cosmetic raw material. Studies show that an aqueous solution containing 1 % NMN and its formulation base produced no irritation in the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) assay (irritation scores of 1 and 4, respectively). Furthermore, patch tests on 31 volunteers revealed no erythema, papules or other positive reactions, confirming excellent skin compatibility [2]. These data provide critical support for the safe use of NMN in both leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic products.
Efficacy Studies
NMN exhibits multifaceted skin-care benefits. In vitro, 0.003 % NMN significantly suppressed LPS-induced NO release from RAW264.7 macrophages, achieving an inhibition rate of 16.86 % (p < 0.0001), indicating potent soothing and anti-inflammatory activity [2]. In UVB-damaged human foreskin fibroblasts (HFF-1), 0.005 % NMN up-regulated type I collagen expression by 45.19 % (p < 0.05), directly promoting dermal structural repair [2]. A 28-day human trial with 34 volunteers further demonstrated that daily use of a formulation containing 1 % NMN reduced skin recoil time by 18.14 % (p < 0.05), confirming a measurable firming effect [2].
Challenges and Outlook
Despite these advantages, the cosmetic use of NMN still faces obstacles. Its high hydrophilicity limits percutaneous absorption, necessitating formulation strategies such as liposomal encapsulation or nanocarrier systems [2]. Moreover, long-term stability and chronic safety require additional investigation.
With continued advances in delivery technologies and deeper mechanistic elucidation, NMN is poised to become a next-generation functional cosmetic ingredient that integrates anti-inflammatory, reparative and firming benefits, offering innovative solutions for anti-aging skin care.
References
- [1] Gao B, Long Y, Peng C, et al. Safety and efficacy evaluation of β-nicotinamide mononucleotide in cosmetics. Science Square, 2024(11): 24-29.
- [2] Chen S, Wang L, Jiang H. Research progress on the anti-aging mechanisms, applications and detection of nicotinamide mononucleotide. Chinese Journal of Applied Chemistry, 2025, 42(2): 168-181.
*Special note - This article is for informational purposes only and cannot replace a doctor's treatment diagnosis and advice. It should not be regarded as a recommendation or proof of efficacy of the medical products involved. If it involves disease diagnosis, treatment, and rehabilitation, please be sure to go to a professional medical institution to seek professional advice.
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